Review of 2013 The wearable scrapbook

Well when I think that at the start of 2013 I could not sew (I did own two sewing machines though - another story) I feel very proud of how far I came and also of every item I made. That's not to say they were all good but each one reminds of the time I made it and its like a wearable scrapbook.

 So it all began from a Google search and a longing to be creative and ended with a really cool hobby and a daily addiction to reading sewing blogs.

  So first there was Alma - which taught me I don't like peter pan collars and that chiffon sari scarf fabric is not the easiest first sew fabric. I also fell in love with independent patterns and invisible zippers.Then there was Ginger which taught me that with single sided fabric it is really important to fold the fabric wrong sides out before cutting - My coudroy Ginger was actually cut to have the coudroy on the inside and required some - ahem bodging- to get it to work but it is wearable although kicks out a bit in a strange /un ginger like way. It also introduced me to Colette patterns which I fell for big time.

 There was two Laurels - one knit and one strange sparkly sari blue. The knit I've worn lots and lots. I also entered into a competition with these

There was a really wearable Mathilde - which also ended up being my most read post of last year after Tilly retweeted the photo I sent her - Thanks Tilly This I've worn to several friends birthdays and also my trip to London to buy fabric.


  There was a beautiful Hawthorn - in plaid that kinda matches up that i wore to my daughters 2nd birthday

 A made-by-rae buttercup bag - think i need the bigger pattern though as I like to carry a lot of stuff

 There was a Staple dress that I wore to see Matilda the musical with my mum and other daughters 8th birthday. This i always wear with a chunky belt so it may need more elastic next time - shirring is so much fun

 Then there was my last project of the year Victoria Blazer - which I loved making but think I need a more tailored - less eighties style pattern and that i need to have more adventurous fabric choice - it was a bit dull. I had hoped to make an avocado hoodie but that is still to be made and will probably have more adventurous fabric as the choice I had in mind was a bit dull - see learning from my blazer mistake.  What I really love about all these is that I remember not only where I have worn them but also when I made them and what we were doing at the time. Some clothes remind me of the film that I watched whilst sticking the printed pattern together or the music I was listening to whilst assembling it   I have learnt so much in a year and wonder what I will have achieved by this time next year. Next post I will tell you about my plans for 2014 until then thanks for reading

Entangled for dressmaking

This is my first fabric pattern review  in my new monthly feature.  Actually when I first thought of this as an idea it was the first fabric that sprung to mind.  When I started sewing it was mainly due to the beautiful range of crafting and quilting fabrics out there, but when I started dressmaking I realised that many of the exquisite patterns did not give the drape needed for some patterns. So whats a girl to do?

Entangled in Navy

 Entangled Collection by Heather Dutton

I  found that a lot of my sewing time was being taken up with sourcing fabric. Sometimes I would like the pattern but the fabric was wrong.  Other times I would find the right fabric but not the right pattern, or worse right fabric, right pattern , wrong colours.  So introducing my first fabric choice Entangled by Hang Tight Studio.  Heather Dutton - the designer behind this beautiful design is based in Maine, USA and her design is available from many places including Modern Yardage and Spoonflower.  

The design can be printed in a variety of scales (small, medium and large), which is perfect for a range of projects, and also on a range of fabrics, both woven and knits.  In a recent offer Spoonflower were sending a free swatch of their new performance knit fabric.  I choose to have Entangled in Bloem Grey as my free swatch but this design is available in so many (32) different colour ways.   

There have also been several versions of this made into dresses and I recommend you take a look.  Many of you will have seen the simply perfect navy and white entangled Colette hawthorn dress by Emma and also a very pretty block dress for a little girl by Steph at girl. Inspired.  If you know of any other versions please let me know as it would be great to add them to this page.

How would I use this pattern.  Well I love this geometric, directional print, a clever take on polka dot spots and pin stripes .  I would love to make another April Rhodes Staple Dress, but if feeling up for more of a challenge, I could really see this a Sewaholic Minoru Coat In fact in contrasting colours for the outer and lining would be really fun.

Sewaholic Minoru - very much on my wish list White Lining and Navy Shell

Well I hope you have enjoyed this first fabric pattern review and maybe have started planning your own project.  If you have let me know which colour and pattern you would use?  Also any comments and thoughts on this as a regular feature would be great.

The fabulous and wonderful Mathilde Alma

I would not have been able to complete this challenge without using a Tilly pattern.  Back in January I decided that I would like to do some sewing.  I Googled simple sewing projects for beginners and found a link to Tilly's site.  It was so easy to read I think I read the whole thing.  When I had finished I had moved away from just wanting to sew a cushion cover to wanting to sew my own wardrobe and I wanted my own blog. I was completely inspired. It therefore made perfect sense to include her first pattern into my challenge.

I have finally completed this blouse and wanted to share with you.  It was so much fun to make and to be honest this is actually my second version.  I started this just after completing Colette Ginger and it was, for me, a step too far.  That's not to say that this is a difficult pattern, more that for a third ever make, I was not ready for it possibly a little over ambitious.

The problem with the first version
My first version was navy and white polka dot crepe de chine.  This I believe was a major problem because the fabric although beautiful and drapy was also a slippery little creature.  I also cut it out with scissors.  When I think about it now, these both combined  meant that the pieces I cut really had no bearing on the pattern and that was just the start of my problems. The neckline and the pleats were wonderful and challenging and really fun to make.  Tilly's instructions make it very easy to follow as do the wonderful tutorials on her site. My real problem came with the seven button holes.  I had not done button holes before.  i have also lost the manual for my machine. I tried to guess, starting at the bottom as this I thought would be least obvious.  The first one went well but with each successive buttonhole they got worse. The button holes were a disaster. I gave up on the project.  then...

The practically perfect second version

So I started a second version this time using a lovely navy cotton poplin star print.  

  Far easier to work with I wondered why I didn't use cotton more often.  I cut it with my rotary cutter and the pieces looked just like the pattern;  This made assembly sooo easy.The pleats were a joy and I even added  some crochet lace detail between the yoke and the front - an idea stolen borrowed from Lauren Guthrie.

   

The sleeves were not for me and so the I also borrowed the cap sleeve idea using Sewaholic's Alma as a pattern.  I also love those seven large buttons on the back.

v

To remember
If you are new to sewing this is a perfect pattern just don't use a slippery fabric - cotton poplin is cheap and perfect for the capped sleeve version and widely available in lots of gorgeous patterns.  Use a rotary cutter although with care they are very sharp.  You get a very accurate cut and accuracy does make sewing much easier. Do follow all the steps from Tilly's site, both the instructions and photos are brilliant.  Try not to lose the manual for your sewing machine.  Practice buttonholes over and over until they are perfect before moving onto the garment.

I will be making another Mathilde although again with cap sleeves.  This is only make three  of my 12 makes so I hope to make another Mathilde in the new year.  The next pattern I will be making April Rhodes Staple dress.  Have you made this?  I chose it for the pockets and the easy styling.

Floral Alma

Floral Sewaholic Alma

After the last post my PC decided that it would stop working and is currently at the PC hospital.  Not realising it would take so long but glad to be back to my blog.

I may make a plain Alma
with the rest of this fabric

I made this back in February but this is the first time its made it to the blog.  It is my version of Sewaholic's Alma.  During winter and spring I was sourcing places to buy fabric and this came from one of the local Asian stores which sell fabric as suits (Salwar kameeze). This means that you buy roughly 2 meters each of two complementary fabrics one would be for the trouser (usually plain) and one would be for the top (in this case floral).  Sometimes there is also a scarf made from chiffon.

There were some very ornate fabrics with beautiful border prints and embroidery but for this project I wanted something more simple.  The floral is similar to a ditsy print and I think the fabric is polyester.  For a first fabric it was a bit slippery, especially when cutting.  I used plenty of tins of baked beans as fabric weights to hold it down.

Invisible zipper is, well, invisible

front view of Alma.
Next one will be more fitted now
 I have my dress form

I made Alma version A, but without the belt.  I love the cap sleeves which although look tricky were not too much hassle.  They are also very flattering on me  The blouse comes together easily and the invisible zipper was a triumph.  What i really love is how many times i have worn this out and I have got compliments on it from people who didn't know I had made it.  I really like the neckline although it had its own issues and I tried topstiching which again will need some practise.  This is my first piece of proper sewing and I am very proud of it.

topstiching - not sure why I chose zigzag

I will be definitely making it again and with so many variations it will be difficult to choose which one will be next.  If you haven't made an Alma yet why not give it a try.  

Have you made Alma?  How did you find it as a pattern?  what fabric did you use?  Do you wear it often or does it lurk at the back of your wardrobe ?Next time its Colette's Ginger. 

Sewaholic Alma Muslin/Toile

Sewaholic Alma

I know most people start their sewing life with a skirt (something simple) or dress (something wow).  Some even start with something for the home - curtains, cushion cover, heritage style quilt. I started with Sewaholic's Alma.  I'm not sure why I chose this pattern but it a very popular choice for many.

For those who are not aware Sewaholic are a fabulous pattern house from Vancouver, Canada and designed by the very talented Tasia.  She designs  "sewing patterns for the modern seamstress".  Maybe it was that idea that took me to buy Alma.  By modern I took it to mean somebody with no sewing experience.  Isn't that a definition of "modern" I also quite like the idea of being a seamstress, much more exciting and romantic than a tailor or dressmaker.

There are many examples of Alma in the blogosphere.  The pattern can be adapted so offers great value, with different arm length, neckline and waist details.  I have never worn/bought a peter pan collar but thought this would be a good opportunity to try and paired it with elbow length sleeve. I had an old piece of cotton sheeting and thought i would make a muslin from this to check the sizing.

The pattern was very easy to follow and it came together well.  There were of course a few problems but this is a muslin and so I will sort these out next time round but the fit was good without need for adjustments.  I really like the length of the blouse and the overall shape of the bodice.  This pattern will be made again and I would recommend it.

Skills that I learnt on this project

Check out how straight those seams are!!

Well this is my first ever sewing project so pretty much everything from cutting out pattern and fabric to using a sewing machine.  This pattern allows development of some really useful skills especially concealed zips and setting sleeves.  Really they are not to be scared of with so many useful video tutorials online even I was able to do them. The Coletterie zipper tutorial was watched over and over.  I am stupidly impressed that my sleeves are the same length ( it is the simple things...).  The zip is far from concealed but it does up.  The sleeves are not too bumpy and wearable. Overall, as a first garment, I am very proud and happy, and have learnt sooooo much.

For next time... Well as it turns out I don't really suit peter pan collars and I'm thinking cap sleeves are also more me.  What I love about this is by sewing items I am learning so much about my own personal style and becoming more active in the clothes I choose to wear.



Problems with my sewing - most definitely not the pattern

The collar is not centered

-  how did that happen?

The importance of matching
zips and fabric

Next up the finished floral Alma...

Several false starts but here we go...

I am not very good with writing this blog but hope to be more prolific from now on.  I have thought about why I was not blogging and it not because I wasn't sewing or that I didn't have time.  I have decided that it was because I am actually shy.  Awwww. This came as a shock to me as I'm normally considered to be a very confident person.  But seriously the idea of posting photos of myself online is quite daunting and this has been stopping me from posting the items I have made.  This blog was supposed to be a way of recording my sewing journey and all the things I have made.  A gallery/diary of my progress and something I should be proud of. So  I will be adding photos soon but for the meanwhile on my very new and beautiful Lady Valet until I'm feeling more confident.

What was I hoping to achieve this year...
When I decided to start sewing my own clothes it was because, like many others, I wanted clothes that fit.  My aim was to sew 12 garments in 12 months.  I also wanted to only use independent pattern designers. The list I started with in January has changed as new patterns have been added that I simply wanted to try.

1. Colette Ginger Navy Corduroy
2. Sewaholic Alma Floral
3. Sewahloic Minoru
4. Tillys Mathilde Navy spot
5. Colette Laurel dress
6. Colette Peony dress
7. Colette Hazel dress
8. Sew Liberated Clara dress
9. Sew Liberated Skinny jeans
10. A hoodie top - forgotten where this was from
11. Sewaholic Renfrew
12. Colette Clover or something similar

Let me know what you think and if you know which pattern  number 10 is.
Look forward to your comments and thank you for stopping by.  My next post will be about Sewaholic's Alma.  Hope to see you soon

Also I am wanting to follow a current sewalong, any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated

My week in Sewing. Wow what a busy week.

Well lots to report on this week.

I ordered some lovely fabrics (more on this later) and started my first project, Sewaholic's Alma blouse.  Looking at other blogs I was under the impression that this would take me (a complete beginner) a weekend.

Cautiously I began on Friday.  Starting with trying to work out my measurements and using measurement chart found through Tilly's Blog by Miss P. Once I worked out my measurements I decided to go for the 8 and started to cut my pattern and fabric.  The fabric I was using was an old cotton valance as this was going to be a muslin.

On Saturday I started sewing.  Cue first problem. My darts were awful I didn't know how to do a dart and I had to do 6.  After some Google research i found this video and was able to complete my 6 darts.  I also found a video on how to use a seam ripper as i was spending a lot of time ripping seems in a very inefficient way.

Sunday I made the collar - I didn't have any interfacing but this is a run through so didn't worry to much and was very happy with the shape of the collar. Especially how it met in the middle.  Not sure that I'm a peter pan collar kinda girl though so may try doing the other two collars in the real version.

Monday ordered an invisible zip from.

Tuesday Zip arrived and went about the complex and counter intuitive process of invisible zippers.  Used the Colleterie video to help me. First attempt was really good on one side and not the other.  I had gone over the teeth of the zip and the zip would not do up.  Hadn't realized to switch the position of my needle and had gone over the zip.  Used the seam ripper and tried again.  This time better, the zip goes up but is far from invisible   Used the seam ripper again

Wednesday, tried again with the zip.  third time and this much better almost invisible.  Will leave this now and move on to the sleeves.  Used this video on seam easing.  Then used this video on sleeve finishing.  I have at the moment one sleeve on the muslin.  I also have another sleeve ready to put on today and I need to hem the bottom.  Hopefully then first make has taken ,just one week.  Look forward to trying on when its complete.

My thoughts on this pattern.
This is advertised as an intermediate pattern.  I wish I had started with something easier to begin with...but I have learnt some really good skills this week and am confident that I could make this pattern again.

What went well
1. The sizing is good
2. The darts were easier than I thought they would be
3. The invisible zip is a challenge but definitely worth it
4. Sleeves were easier than I thought and made it feel like proper dressmaking

What I don't like
1.  I'm not sure that I'm a peter pan collar person
2. Plain fabric shows off your mistakes

What I will do next time
1. Use the same size
2. Choose an invisible zip to match the fabric
3. try the cap sleeve version
4. try the other two necklines
5. Use a patterned fabric

Fabrics

Yes I've been shopping.  With so many different fabric stores online it would be wrong to not try them all - wouldn't it?

Liberty print corduroy- Isla Rose-  Sewbox
Navy crepe backed satin - Fabric Godmother
Navy corduroy
Fusia floral viscose
Navy cotton poplin stars
Navy cotton poplin stripe- Remnant House

I'm now not allowed to buy any more fabric until I have used up this little stash.

Patterns

Have bought some more patterns too.  Colettes peony pattern. McCalls 2401

I'm not allowed to buy any more patterns... well except maybe some trousers.

New year New blog

Inspired by some lovely makes on Tilly's blog, I have decided to have a go.  I begrudge walking around stores trying on ill fitting clothes and feel that the time has come to make my own clothes.  I had tinkered with this idea two years ago but could not find fabrics or patterns that inspired me.  I have chosen to start a blog as a way of tracking my progress and a way of recording successes and pitfalls along the way.  I plan to post once a week. I have also seen the way bloggers support each other with ideas and really why wouldn't I want to be part of that. That's all for today. Thank you for reading.

UPDATE

Postie has been and the beautiful fabric and pattern that I bought from Sew Over It has arrived.  Nicely wrapped and exciting to open.  It contained Colette pattern Hazel for the summer, grey and white ditsy floral  chiffon and green and cream polka dot cotton. I have the Alma blouse pattern on order so I think I will make a spotty blouse first.  Also before I forget I have got the Cal Patch book and hope to work my way through it.  Need to source some navy blue corduroy for the basic skirt.